Notes From Santiago

The last 16 km of the trip (from Amenal to Santiago) was, unfortunately, in the rain.  Thank God for rain ponchos and good rain hats!  Of course, by the last evening in Amenal (food was definitely improving) our spirits were already dampened by the early news filtering in at ten pm the other night, of the rail disaster.  We (myself and the other pilgrims) had discussed the possibility of trying to go earlier to see the fireworks and just retracing our steps to continue the Camino but were too disorganised to do much about it. Just as well we didn't investigate it further since the I am sure the train was full of people en route to see the fireworks later that night.

Walking in the path in the rain, people were constantly conversing about the train accident, since helicopters were flying over continuously to and from the crash site. By the time I had arrived in Santiago, media crews and vans were scattered throughout the city.  Relatives of the dead and missing were also arriving to fill the city already packed with tourists coming to the city for the two day fiesta.  Also, it must have been quite a disappointment (nothing, of course, compared to the horrors of the families involved in the accident) for the food suppliers, stalls, performers, who invested their time and money to reap the rewards of participation in the annual festival. They had to pack all their goods and equipment since the festival was cancelled and many local producers depended on this annual event for a large part of their annual income.

Still, in spite of this very somber mood, Santiago is a welcome sight for a pilgrim.  The beautiful Romanesque/Baroque cathedral, whose origins are from the tenth century, the remains of Saint James in the crypt of the cathedral, the pilgrims certificate for people who complete the Way, and just the faces of those who complete the Camino over extended periods of time, are all a sight to behold.

The Parador Catolicos (formerly a hospital for pilgrims who did the Camino) is a welcome relief from the inns along the way and the food is delicious (fresh seafood coming from the sea next door) and the temperature very cool (9 degrees at night and requiring a sweater in the shade during the day).  I immediately embarked on a two day eating spree of suckling pig, prawns, more green chili peppers (actually quite spicy) cheeses and more Iberico ham.  The food along the Way has to be very accessible to pilgrims with little money, so the quality of the ingredients is sometimes compromised.  Santiago is a city with regular restaurants, so a wider selection of food with better quality can be found. I am beginning to look like a jamon Serrano!

I will download the last set of photographs for the Camino in the next part of this blog since again the Internet is not allowing me to do so.