The Quandry Of A Supposed Foodie In Lima: Decorative Or Edible?



The most famous restaurant in Peru is Central, also ranked number 4 in the world. How best to describe it? Innovative, creative and culinarily different. My friend Dolores and myself, opted for the twelve course tasting menu (the choice is 12 or 17 courses).


Each dish has the height in meters to right of the menu above, representing the altitude location of the ingredients. Best described as a foodie tour of the Peru, you can experience the unusual flavours and textures you can find in the various microclimates throughout the country,  presented by Central, with unexpected culinary combinations.  Each dish is meticulously prepared with obvious attention to every detail. It is an impressive showcase of local ingredients. 

Did I find it interesting and worthwhile? Yes, I always appreciate culinary creativity and innovation. It's difficult to break new ground and make a success of it. Did I enjoy it? There were 3 or 4 dishes I found gobsmackingly good, the balance was lost on me ...maybe my palate just isn't sophisticated enough? I have to admit to attempting to eat some of the more decorative elements on my plate. 

I also went Pisco tasting in another of Lima's culinary establishments, Malabar. Pisco sours are truly wonderful (how many times have I said that?!) Pisco ranges from 38-48 percent proof and varies according to grape, blends, and local producers. Problem is, after a couple, you're ready to samba on the table!


Recipe for Pisco sour

3 ounces Pisco
1 ounce lime
3/4 ounce sugar syrup
1 egg white

As Rodrigo from Malabar demonstrated, mix all the above ingredients together and give it a really good shake then add egg white, blend in with another good shake (or for an easy life....blender all then add egg white in the end) Add ice in the mixture, give another good shake and then put through sieve to remove ice. Drink and be happy!

I also spent the day with Penelope Alzamora, a chef, for some cooking lessons. She was a partner at Astrid&Gaston, considered also one of the world's best restaurants and taught at culinary school in San Francisco.  It was a thoroughly enjoyable day, food shopping, cooking and eating, my idea of bliss.
Find her in atasteofperu@gmail.com. 

We went to the local markets where I saw an amazing assortment of fruits and vegetables...from very large avocados, pomegranates on steroids, and other oversized and completely unfamiliar fruit from the Amazon. I even saw a papaya/mango hybrid  fruit (see middle photo) which looked more like a papaya in appearance but tasted of an aromatic slightly juicier mango.




After food shopping we spent the day cooking grilled scallops with chillies and cheese, fish and squid cerviche, pork & prawn salsado, and suspiro de limeƱa for pudding. All these Peruvian dishes Penelope cooked with a more fusion finish, all with strong oriental influences.

Lunch was washed down with some Pisco sours (surprise, surprise) and ended with Muna mint tea. What?!!! No quinoa?!!! I don't recall having had a meal without it, the last 18 days. Something tells me I might take a short break from the ingredient.

Lima was definitely about food, surfing (big waves) and Mario Testino (he's Peruvian), who also has a gallery there. I will definitely be  overweight when I board my BA flight, and I'm not even talking about the luggage!


On a final note, there were some restaurants worth trying in Cusco if you are there....Cicciolina, Inka Grill, and Limo.

Some hotels I stayed in Pero were very pleasant indeed and are also worth a mention. 

Inkaterra Casona in Cusco


Hotel Titilaka in Lake Titicaca


Hotel B in Lima


And a special mention again for Mountain Lodges of Peru and their staff, who made our Salkantay Trek very enjoyable.

Hasta la vista, baby! Give me a few days rest and another adventure beckons! 







































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