Salkantay Trail, The First Two Days
Acclimatizing at 4359 meters (14300 feet) and feeling fine.
The trek started slowly. We (10 of us) were all still getting used to the 3400 meter altitude at Cusco, were still recovering from jet lag, and so decided to take the guide's advise and take it slow. Today consisted of a gentle two and a half hour exercise, after our bus ride, trekking to our destination of 3800 meters. We were all staying at the Salkantay Lodge, which is very civilized for a mountain refuge with wifi, heating, en suite, sauna, massage. Normally in the mountains it's dormitory style, shared bathrooms and dodgy linen. Mountain lodges of Peru have done a great job providing comfort at altitude.
I did have a massage and the local masseuse was very strong! She could probably mash the 3000 varieties of Peruvian potatoes with her bare hands. It was a very scary experience! Strong hands from the Inca ancestry of moving 100 ton rocks across mountains without the wheel.
This is the view of Humantay mountain from outside my bedroom window at the lodge.
Humantay Mountain
The second day we were advised to do an acclimatisation exercise by going to Humantay Lake which is at 4359 meters or 14300 feet. You need to acclimatise so your body doesn't react negatively to the higher altitudes you need to reach for the trek. The guides advise you do an acclimatisation walk to higher altitude yet coming back and sleeping at lower altitude so your body gets used to the higher elevation slowly.
Hiking in this altitude is not easy. At 4500 meters you only have about 55 percent of the oxygen levels at sea level. Trekking feels like going up a very steep mountain with asthma and a sinus problem. You are advised to stop every few slow steps to recover. HAPE or HACE (high altitude pulmonary or cerebral edema) is a serious life threatening condition. So it is highly advised to go slowly so your body has time to adjust to the higher altitude step by step.
Sleeping is also problematic. The combined jet lag and altitude means I haven't slept more than three and a half hours a night since arriving in Peru. Well, if I did fall flat on my face, my eye bags would surely cushion my fall. Thank God the severe headaches have gone, thanks to diamox, the altitude sickness pill. An altitude headache feels like a severe hangover with motion sickness.
But today, I felt fine. I am finally acclimatising! It wasn't a pleasant first few days but when the strange feelings and headaches lift, you can enjoy the scenery, experience and camaderie of the trekking group. Post trek, you never remember ever having any problems at all, only the wonderful experience!
With LIz at Humantay lake.
We also had a shaman perform a ceremony for us the lake. A very interesting experience.
Upwards and onwards tomorrow. A nine hour difficult day expected to reach the Salkantay pass and on to our next lodge.
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