Day 1. Dolomites Trek. Better Than I Expected

Laurin to St Zyprian via Messnerjoch & Nigerpass. Elevation Gain 800 ft (244 meters) loss 2890 ft (880 meters)

Laurin to Nigerpass via Messnerjoch Elevation gain 780 ft (238 meters) loss 910 ft (277.5 meters)

10.6 kilometres.

Ahhhh. The first day is always a relatively short hike as a warm up.  I met up with the Backroads (an active travel company based in America) trekking group.  They were a  nice collection of professional people, and more importantly, fit and fun! The Backroads organisation, from hour one, is pretty impressive, welcoming, and it works like clockwork. That formula makes trekking a much more enjoyable experience.

We hiked up and itinerary I posted above. The scenery is very dramatic, with jagged peaks contrasting with the lush green valleys full of apple trees and vineyards. The paths were not difficult and very clearly marked so no worries about getting lost in the area if you lose the group.

After the morning hike  we had a typical alpine lunch, Italian style at the Malga Messnerjoch. Speck, salads, cheeses, eggs and potatoes were served,  consistent  with other alpine restaurants, but in this area served with dumplings, some rolled pasta, and finished with strudel. There is this very hard, crispy, thin and dried rye bread called Scültelbrot or pane scosso (popular because it keeps for a long period of time) which is served at all meals. Beware if your dental work is not robust but, if you can masticate with confidence, it’s good with cheeses, speck and red wine.

Apple Strudel,. Delicious!

After our hike we checked into our hotel which is quite impressive. Originally built in the 12th century, it’s been renovated to a very high standard and makes full use of the surrounding views. From the spa and pool, to the bedrooms, bar and dining areas, you see the wonderful valleys and majestic peaks. It’s also home to the very large private art collection of the owner, which you find throughout the property. Good points for directions...take a right when you see the Picasso, to go to the loos downstairs. Check out the Romantik Hotel Turm for details on the property.

After a short rest we had wine tasting (locally produced) in a 15th century castle whose original central structures are from the 12th century. Fabulous views again, after all castles are built high for defence, and a great venue for a party in the Dolomites, in case anyone was looking for one.

Castle Prösels

Dinner.  We went to the Alter Fausthof, the chef of which is one of  the “slow food movement” in Italy and an acclaimed writer of cookbooks. Another big meal!

Grilled vegetables, mushroom and speck risotto, veal knuckle and raspberry/almond pudding

Tomorrow is another day of hiking and eating!