Palermo: Street Food/Markets/Mafia

Revenge is a dish best served cold.  Famous words from the Godfather. One thing about Palermo, you don't forget that this is the land of the Mafiosi. You come across famous anti corruption/crime political and religious figures in burial crypts inside their most famous churches, having faced their early demise not unalike exactly how you would imagine in a Hollywood movie. Guides and drivers point out places of interest which seem more fictional than real. Palermo cannot escape the violence of its recent past, but it's not what the city is all about.

Palermo is Sicily's cultural, economic and tourism capital  The city is 2700 years old, having been colonised by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, and Spanish.  These influences are very apparent in their architecture, dialect and food.

In search of understanding all these multicultural influences,  I started off by going to the food market, Mercato di Capo.  There were beautiful displays of seafood, fruits and vegetables, plus spices on show not unalike the markets in Morocco and India. This used to be the Arab market before the Normans arrived. 

The next step was to try what the Palermitamis (locals) call their authentic street food. Much of this street food was originally geared towards the workmen from the ports throughout the centuries, so they had to be easily transportable and eaten on the go. Mint, saffron, and other spices, as well as sweet pastries, display obvious Arabic influences.

Panelle Cazzili (chickpea fritters) and Cazzilli (potato croquettes)

        Arancine (not arancini here) fried saffron risotto rice with white ragu (no tomato sauce)

Sfincionello, not unalike a pizza but more foccacia, with olive oil, tomato, onions and breadcrumbs

Sangue Marsala (this is the home of Marsala), their pub drink, along with antipasti of anchovies, olives, sun dried tomatoes and cheese. 

Pani con la Milza.  Super challenging.  Fried spleen in lard.  I tasted but it wasn't for me.

Cannolo, fried pastry with sweetened ricotta

Broscia, brioche with gelato

Honestly, I don't think I have ever had such a concentration of carbohydrate in one three hour period, finished off with a very large ice cream sandwich (in the real sandwich sense).  All I knew is that I didn't want to eat another thing for 12 hours.

I had to work it off by doing some serious historical sightseeing,.

Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele, the largest opera house in Italy, known for its perfect acoustics.

Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio (from 1143), an example of multiplicity of styles. Byzantine,  Norman, and Islamic. 

Palermo Cathedral, an example of varying architectural styles ranging from 1185 to the 19th century.

On the way back to my hotel, I asked my guide why balconies are mostly covered (some with drapes, others with laundry, etc).  Apparently, it's because the men used to (and probably still do) look up women's skirts from the streets. Ahhh, why am I not surprised?

PS:  I did have a panini when I got back to the hotel, having forgotten the amount of street food I consumed during the day.  Tomorrow, more food! I'm off to a cooking class.