Lucky Flight To Lukla With Mr. Lee and Mr. Lee
Of course I didn't get much sleep the night before my flight to Lukla. Four hours tops. Much has been said about "the most dangerous airport in the world" and I frightened myself to death by watching YouTube videos of the flight. Reading blogs about the turbulence and hard landings didn't help either. If I wasn't off trekking immediately upon arrival there, I would have considered some medicinal or alcoholic cures for the anxiety.
Raj, of "Good Karma Trekking", managed to get me on the first flight out with Goma airlines. I tried to Google the airline, flight departures and arrivals, etc. and nothing turned up except something about being bought by Summit, which was not very reassuring. There was also a little information about using planes that were Czech twin engine turboprops.
When I arrived at the airport, it was chaotic, as I expected. There were no porters so I dragged my 32 kilo bag and 9 kilo backpack down the hall until I found the check in. Once at the gate, there were no boards indicating boarding times, I couldn't understand a word of the announcements, so I just tried everything since I didn't want to miss the flight. Every time there was a queue I joined it and finally, third time lucky, it was my flight!
I got onto the bus with 15 other trekkers, all of whom, except one were Korean, and there were all named Mr. Lee or Mr. Lee. They were a happy, friendly lot, and from all my trekking experience, I knew I would be seeing them again, and again, and again. There aren't many routes up Everest.
Well, this is certainly going to sound anticlimactic but it was fine!! Smooth with a great landing. Plus, the Koreans were so chatty, the time went quickly. It was overcast and many of the high mountains stayed hidden by the clouds, which were quickly coming in. I'm glad I took the first flight since a couple of hours later I could see planes being turned back. The very short runway was hidden by the clouds and since there is no margin for error (you either hit the mountain in front or the others around) pilots don't take any risks.
Meeting the team.
Saroj, my head Sherpa, is 24 years old and actually Tamang. It's the other Tibetan mountain group, that moved to the Khumbu valley in Nepal, about 700 years ago. They have worked with the sherpas as support teams for foreign climbers and trekkers. Saroj started as porter as a 14 and became a team leader in 2016. He told me, at 17, he was lifting 90 kilos of rice up the mountain!
Men and Pullman (names given to them by the monks). They've been hauling stuff around for decades. Extremely smiley and friendly, they are all very pleasant to have as my support team. They are all Buddhist, and have that calmness which comes with the religion.
The trek to Phadking
The first part of the trek to Phakding is the normal Nepalese flat, meaning lots of up and down on a slippery (it was now raining) stoney path. I fell into the mud, and had to avoid just falling into the yak dung with an inspired balletic manouvre. Yak dung is absolutely everywhere. Yak!
We arrived in Yeti Mountain lodge. As mountain "huts" or lodges go, it's five star. They also charge major city prices for the rooms. The rooms are fine, bathrooms old, with a large dining area. Much better than camping or staying in the dorms down the street.
The only thing that needs getting used to is the lack of heating. Man, it's freezing! Thank God there are electric blankets. My hands were so cold, my iPad keyboard was unresponsive. The toilet seats felt like block ice. Wakes you up in the morning!
Tomorrow, we are off to the famous Namche Bazar!!
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